Srinagar, June 4 -- In the serene corners of south Kashmir, where bean plants stretch into the summer sun, there used to be a tradition known only to those who lived it. It didn't call for crowds, lou... Read More
Srinagar, June 4 -- In the bylanes of Pulwama and the schoolyards of Sopore, something is slipping away. It's not just innocence or tradition. It's the sense of purpose our children once held onto. A... Read More
Srinagar, June 4 -- Before the roosters cry or the mosque loudspeakers crackle to life, she's already up. The stove is lit, the tea is boiling, the kids' uniforms are ironed. Her husband still has an... Read More
Srinagar, June 4 -- Mornings in Kashmir begin with a blue glow. Not the sky. The screen. The first breath is not breath. It's a refresh. Our thumbs swipe before our eyes open fully. There's no pause, ... Read More
Srinagar, June 4 -- For generations, farmers in Kashmir knew when girdawari season came around. A patwari would show up, usually with a notebook, sometimes with a helper, and walk the fields. They'd ... Read More
Srinagar, June 3 -- Haleema doesn't speak right away. She stands at the edge of the shrine courtyard, eyes closed, breath slow. The sounds around her-chants, whispers, a bazar bustle-blend into silenc... Read More
Srinagar, June 3 -- It's a strange thing, standing at the edge of something that once felt like mine. There's no real word for the feeling. Not grief. Not fear. Just a tightness in the chest. Like tr... Read More
Srinagar, June 3 -- I used to think I understood gender justice. In university, I studied it deeply. Books, journals, seminars. I could quote Foucault and bell hooks in the same breath. I learned how... Read More
Srinagar, June 3 -- On Sunday, June 1, I walked into Eidgah in Srinagar, hoping to see the early signs of Eid al-Azha - the energy, the crowds, the animals, the bargaining, the joy. Instead, I stepped... Read More
Srinagar, June 3 -- In the fall of 1372, a man from Hamdan walked into Kashmir with fewer than a hundred companions. The king was away on a campaign. The people were uncertain. And yet, this group of ... Read More