New Delhi, Jan. 9 -- Just a 5-minute walk from Liberty Square, the iconic marker in the Georgian capital of Tbilisi, is Asureti Eco Shop. Located in the basement, it is a tiny establishment selling all kinds of churchkela, the popular Georgian sweet on a stick, as well as an array of candied fruit, sweets, preserves, honey, spices, powders and knick-knacks. The air is thick with the co-mingling of innumerable aromas. The owner knows no English and my Georgian stopped at madloba (thank you), so we get by with a lot of gestures and expressions of delight.

When she fishes out a glass jar from behind the counter and opens the lid, the whole place is enveloped with the piquant smell of savoury spices. Much gesticulation and use of Google Tran...