BUKIT MERTAJAM, July 31 -- Neighbourwood isn't trying to be the next "it" place.

Tucked in Bukit Mertajam, Penang, the grill house and bakery that chef Sean Khaw runs with his wife YY, an accomplished baker, is simply what they wished their neighbourhood had: honest cooking touched by woodsmoke, bread with a proper tang, and a space where patrons can enjoy family-style shared plates.

Sean explains, "The word 'neighbour' is a concept that comes from Bukit Mertajam, where it is all about the local community. We want to create a welcoming space where local families and neighbours gather over great food. We also want to integrate the grilling concept in most of our food, hence we make it into a grill house."

That love of cooking began earl...