India, Dec. 6 -- From the Kolis, who have been fishing in the city's waters since before recorded history, and early settlers such as the Pathare Prabhus, to the people who poured into the city during British rule and those, like the Sindhis, who found safe haven here during Partition, this is a comprehensive food history of India's great metropolis. The book traces the originality of Mumbai's food, a quality encapsulated by the vada pao. Were it not for the Portuguese, who transported the potato to Bombay and taught the Goans the art of baking pao, for instance, the vada pao may never have been conceived. Celebrating this rich diversity, In the Beginning there was Bombay Duck explores the influence of migrants from the Kanara coast, who gave the city the Udupi restaurant; Parsis, who introduced diners to Persian and Gujarati-inflected dishes; and the Muslim communities that made Bhendi Bazaar a gastronome's dream. All in all, this is a delightfully anecdotal history of food in Mumbai....