India, Oct. 4 -- Heer & Ranjha are among the many star-crossed protagonists of our tragic love fables. But Katra Sheikh Ranjha in Old Delhi has nothing to do with love, passion or heartbreak. Unless you find romance in nuts and bolts. The lane teems with shops selling these mechanical fasteners. Take Ganpati House. It specialises in "all kinds of machine screws, nuts, bolts, self taping screws, spring washers, stainless steel screws and brass screws." Such is the irony. Once the world had a Ranjha bursting with mohabbat-pyar. Today the world has a Sheikh Ranjha bursting with machine-parts. That said, the place has its own idiosyncratic poetry. A beautifully illustrated hoarding of Bhola Ram & Sons, for instance, is showing a range of unfami...