India, Jan. 10 -- From discordant sounds to pindrop silence. This transition unfolds suddenly, right at the instant when one steps into the gateway. The gateway is like a proverbial Lakshman Rekha, separating the chaotic Gali Charkhe Walan street from utterly peaceful Gali Paswan street. This afternoon, the big noisy Gali Charkhe Walan is milling with humanity. The labourers are hobbling along carrying heavy loads on the head. Cotton candy hawker is overtaking the sweet potato-hawker. Battery rickshaw is racing past a scooterist. A couple of children in blue school uniform are walking hand-in-hand. Then you turn into the narrow winding Gali Paswan. The universe here is. a void. Nobody is to be seen at this moment. Not even a rat-in fact, th...