India, April 10 -- Tea comes in many colours. Pale gold to pitch black. In this spectrum, desi chai usually exists in variations of brown. This Old Delhi stall breaks the mould. Despite specialising in monochromatic chai, it is a monument to colours.

Consider the counter. It is painted in cyan. The snack case atop the counter is electric blue. Then, there is the wall behind the stall-it is in a pale edition of orange, or maybe some shade of saffron. Whatever, the colour looks striking, and gives the stall its unique character. The establishment owner, Radhe Shyam, himself painted the wall, he says.

Shyam Tea Stall (9am to 6pm daily) takes its name from its owner. Shyam is also another name of Shri Krishna. But the flute-playing Bhagwan is...