India, April 17 -- Flaky, light, and crisp, fen is a kind of-shall we say-biskut? In truth, it is closer to a puff pastry, made up of many fragile layers, each ready to collapse under even the slightest pressure of the finger. Fen may be brittle, but it is among Delhi's most democratic bakery offerings. It is affordable to many. A classic companion to morning tea, it now sells for about ten rupees for two. Not long ago, it was five. At the turn of the century, it could be had for a single rupee. The snack is traditionally the stuff of mornings. At dawn, fens begin to arrive at the city's roadside tea stalls, delivered daily by distributors on bikes, who source them from "factories"-a generic term for small-scale bakeries on the city's fring...