Kathmandu, April 11 -- A trip to Bhadgaon is a commitment. You need to get on that Arniko Highway, and race Enfields and micros zooming eastwards at 80kmph. Bhaktapur is only 11km from the Ring Road, and 20 minutes away at night. But at rush hour, there are bottlenecks that make it seem farther than it is.

This is the week of Bhaktapur's biggest chariot festival, the Bisket Jatra, the first day of which is known locally as Dhwo kwabijyaigu or 'the god carried downwards'. It might be a good idea to extend the day trip to see the festival and stay overnight to really get to know the city of devotees.

By evening, most of the tourists and visitors will have left, and Bhaktapur once more belongs to its residents. A good place to hang out to...